Glasgow
August 15,2026
Glasgow
When your last name is Clyde and you find yourself in Scotland, there’s really no choice but to go to Glasgow and pay your respects to the River Clyde and the Firth of Clyde. So
I spent several days this week in Scotland’s biggest city, determined to do just that.
During my visit to Balmoral Castle, I met several ladies from Glasgow and asked what I should see while I was in their hometown. After listing an impressive number of pubs I “mustn’t miss,” one of them suggested a trip on the Waverley paddle steamer — the best way, she said, to truly experience the Firth of Clyde. I never made it to the pubs, but I did make it to the Waverley.
After an hour-long bus ride to Largs, I boarded the steamer and immediately realized I didn’t fully understand what I had signed up for. I thought I’d purchased a simple round‑trip ticket to Rothesay on the Isle of Bute: a couple of hours ashore, then back to Glasgow. In my mind, the boat shuttled back and forth between Largs and Rothesay.
It did not.
The Waverley dropped passengers in Rothesay at 12:30, then continued on to four more ports up the Firth of Clyde and the Firth of Fyne before returning to Rothesay at 18:30 (6:30). That left me with six hours on the island — and Rothesay does not have six hours’ worth of activities.
I decided to start with lunch. Welsh rarebit was on the menu, and I couldn’t resist. When I was a child, we had Welsh rarebit about once a month for a light dinner. I hadn’t thought of it in years. It’s essentially a thick cheese sauce poured over bread. Recipes online insist it contains strong beer, but I’m certain ours never did. Still, it’s inexpensive and comforting, and I may try making it again — perhaps with the beer this time.
Before leaving the restaurant, I asked about the local tourist office. Rothesay doesn’t have one. I explained that I wanted to hire someone to drive me around the island, and the waitress called a friend, cousin, brother — someone — who arrived a few minutes later. I hopped in his car and off we went. Probably not the smartest thing I’ve ever done, but it turned out fine.
My driver, Mark, was a friendly thirty‑something who had traveled with the Tartan Army during the World Cup. He’d visited Boston and Miami and loved both. He mentioned that New York and Washington were expensive, and I agreed. He’s planning to return to the U.S. in November to visit Fort Worth and then drive to Albuquerque. If I were going to be in Dallas in November, I would have invited him to dinner — Tex‑Mex or barbecue — but I’ll be in Ireland then.
Mark took me to Rothesay Castle, which is unusual because it’s round — not just the towers, but the entire structure. After his improvised tour, I explored the castle on my own. It’s an interesting ruin.
The Marquis of Bute essentially owned the island and built the grand Mount Stuart
House. I walked the grounds but didn’t go inside. We also visited some standing stones (not nearly as impressive as Stonehenge), saw the Isle of Bute International Airport (a field), and admired the beaches — cold water, but beautifully clear.
After a several of hours, I paid Mark and wandered back into town. Up to that point, Rothesay had been pleasant. Then things began to unravel.
I’d noticed a souvenir shop earlier and thought I’d stop in. It closed at 4:00. It was after 4:00. I decided I’d eat dinner at 5:00 and then get in line for the boat. Unfortunately, I couldn’t find a single restaurant that was open. Several bars were operating, but none served food. Even the outdoor stands were closed.
I didn’t understand it. Schools are out, it’s holiday time in the UK, and with the extreme heat in the south, people are flocking to cooler places like Scotland. The boat was full of tourists. Why were so many businesses closed? Perhaps they were on holiday too — much like France.
By the time I boarded the boat back to Glasgow, I was tired, hungry, and discouraged. I wouldn’t arrive until 20:00 (8:00), and I needed something to eat. Room service was expensive and limited. Pizza felt like too much. As I walked out of the bus station, I spotted a Subway. Normally I try to eat at local places when traveling, but that night Subway looked heavenly. I ordered a simple chicken sandwich, chips, and a Coke, caught a taxi, and enjoyed my humble meal in my hotel room.
My hotel, The Dakota, is very nice but not conveniently located. Glasgow’s hills are steep,
so I decided to use the Hop On/Hop Off bus to avoid climbing them. My plan was to ride to the city centre, hop off for a coffee and a scone, then hop on another bus.
When the bus arrived, I learned that the one I was already on would have a live guide instead of the recorded narration. I knew that would be more interesting, so I hopped off, grabbed a quick coffee and a package of shortbread cookies, and hopped right back on. I enjoyed an excellent tour of the city while juggling coffee, cookies, my camera, and my purse.
During my tour, I learned that the River Clyde made Glasgow, and Glasgow made the River Clyde. For most of its history, the Clyde was a narrow, shallow river that could handle only small boats. In the 18th century, Glasgow’s merchants began dredging and widening it so larger vessels could reach the city and expand its trade. Over time, Glasgow became a major center of shipbuilding, and the river grew in both size and importance. Although shipbuilding is no longer the powerhouse it once was, the River Clyde remains the heart of the city.
After a delicious lunch of Beef and Guinness pie, I continued on the HO/HO bus and
visited several stops. The transportation museum was especially interesting. After dinner at a small Italian restaurant, I was walking back to the hotel when I realized I had completely missed the solar eclipse. Glasgow was supposed to have a 91% eclipse — enough for noticeable darkness — and I didn’t even realize it had happened.
Sometimes I wonder if I walk around in a fog and miss what’s happening right in front of me.
Aberdeen Weather
Cloudy
High: 69 F (20 C) Low: 54 F (12 C)
Sunrise: 5:34 Sunset: 8:49 (20:49)
Hours of Daylight: 15 hours and 15 minutes
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